Details of Design

By Felicia Coley

Gucci. Dior. Chanel. These are the names of the trailblazers in the impressionable world of haute couture fashion. Since the first couture house flung open its French doors in 1920, high fashion has waved its over-priced, over-the-top label literally over the heads of many generations of women.

Now, fast-forward to the brink of the Millennium Girl. With one hand on her hip and the other clutching her platinum card, she asks the inevitable question: "Haute Couture, what have you done for me lately?!!!"

Plenty, according to Sir Pierre (that's Mr. Jackson, if you're classy). Lamar Jackson, whose stage name is Sir Pierre, has been selected to participate in the 12th annual, "International Designer of the Year Contest." Sponsored by New Day Associates (a distribution consulting firm for publications), the event will take place October 31, 1999, in Newark, New Jersey. If chosen from over 30 finalists, Pierre will receive an all-expense paid trip to take his couture collection to Paris, Rome or London.

"Outside of being the winner, I'm looking forward to the exposure and the open doors of opportunity this will bring," says Pierre. Along with a four-piece collection for the panel of seven judges to view, Pierre will take along 39 years of perseverance.

A native of Rochester, New York, Pierre grew up the second oldest of five children. "At age 12, I was drawing sketches instead of playing kickball," he recalls. Even though his first design was a shirt for himself, he did not hear the whisper of purpose at that time.

Graduating from high school in 1980, Pierre taught modeling for ten years, fueling his passion for fashion within two agencies. In 1990, he organized his first fashion show to introduce his designs to the affluent women of Rochester. He continued to hone his craft, earning a reputation as a designer and building an impressive clientele list.

He stepped out on faith in 1991, and presented a collection of his designs at Marie's Boutique in Chicago, Illinois. Along with the blessings came some painful marketing lessons about the resources needed to develop and present a large showing. Taking a heroic leap in 1992, he held another showing in Chicago. This time, aside from being the designer, he was prepared to don the hat of set designer, makeup artist and coordinator.

"It wasn't feasible for me to have a full staff. Therefore, I ended up doing a great deal of the production myself so I could craft a total look," Pierre says.

He moved on to even more productive ventures, presenting his collection for Midvale Country Club in 1997, where he showcased sophisticated suiting for the women of the club. This was a perfect venue for his work.

Which raises the question of the reality of couture fashions. What is the size of the target group attracted to couture fashions? Pierre's prices, ranging from $500 to $2,000, are unrealistic to the Walmart frequent shopper. And that is the point-you get what you pay for.

Couture fashions are synonomous with craftsmanship, intricate fabrics and hand-sewn detailing. Ready-to-wear (as well as budget-conscious) lines are geared toward the masses, focusing on quantity as opposed to quality.

Some may argue that the couture houses of Paris no longer dictate the fashion trends anymore. Instead, designers are influenced by the chic of the street. Here's a little secret: it's always been that way.

The biannual couture shows supply the energies that cause the domino effect, and results in the knock-offs that end up in the ready-to-wear lines. Investing in a couture design serves two purposes. First, you'll be guaranteed exquisite workmanship in the seams, buttonholes and silhouette of the garment. And secondly, you'll never have to worry about seeing your outfit coming and going at the next soirée.

"I have a mother who hated walking into a store and seeing ten of the same dress," laughs Pierre, "so I wanted to set my designs apart from the average fashions available." And understanding that no woman enjoys seeing her "twin" at a social event, he markets his designs for the fashion-forward individual (with disposable income).

Choosing not to join the catwalk with hip-hop, urban-inspired designers, Pierre describes his style as "avante-garde." "That particular market (hip-hop) is oversaturated, and does not identify with my clientele," he states. "My inspiration comes from the enviroment around me; I can sit here and pull designs from this decor," he says, pointing to an intricately-carved railing. "But visions can also come in my sleep."

The Millennium Girl will have to go elsewhere if she wants that Jetson-inspired garb. Fluid lines and high-tech (synthetic and natural combination) fabrics will be on Pierre's sketch pad into the next century.

Meanwhile, Rochester area seamstresses and tailors whom Pierre enlists the help of, will be at the machines sewing together the pieces of his dreams.

When choosing a word to describe himself, Pierre selects creator over designer. And rightfully so. His skills as a make-up artist and licensed hairstylist make him a triple threat. But don't be blinded by the accomplishments. Pierre knows that all the portfolios, certificates and training hours don't mean cheddar if he does not give credit to his Lord and Savior.

In preparing for his big night in October, Pierre offers sound advice to aspiring designers. "Be aggressive. Pound the pavement by going door-to-door to the boutiques, as I did, to let them know you're a designer. Stay unique, look outside of your hometown toward more fashionable markets, and know what your dreams are. But most importantly," he emphasizes, "know that there is a Higher Being driving you on."

Yes, God is in the details. And Sir Pierre will present them on October 31, 1999, before a receptive crowd of industry experts.